This Edinburgh travel guide covers everything you need to know—from the best neighborhoods to stay in and how to get around to safety tips and must-try restaurants. It’s loaded with insider tips to help you have an unforgettable trip!
Edinburgh is the kind of city that sweeps you off your feet the moment you arrive. Between the medieval cobblestone streets, dramatic castle views, cozy pubs, and lively festivals, it’s a place that feels both timeless and full of energy.
If it’s your first visit, navigating where to stay, what to do, and how to make the most of your time can feel overwhelming. That’s why we put together this ultimate Edinburgh travel guide—so you can spend less time stressing and more time soaking up the magic of Scotland’s capital.
Edinburgh Travel Guide
- Our experience in Edinburgh
- Best time to visit
- Top things to do in Edinburgh
- Custom Edinburgh map
- Getting around Edinburgh
- Where to eat
- Where to stay
- Perfect Edinburgh itinerary
Our experience in Edinburgh
We visited Edinburgh in September 2022 with our daughter, who was 9 months old at the time. We found the city to be incredibly family-friendly. In fact we’d go so far as to say Edinburgh is one of the best European cities to visit with kids!
We documented our time in Edinburgh in the video below, so you can get an insider look at what to expect in Scotland’s charming capital.
Best time to visit Edinburgh
There really is no wrong time of year to plan a visit to Edinburgh. In terms of weather, it never really gets super hot or super cold, so most things to do in Edinburgh are available year-round.
It is important to note that summer is the rainiest season in Scotland (including Edinburgh), whereas spring and fall are the driest.
In our opinion, visiting Edinburgh in May or September would be best, so you have the best chance of warmer, drier weather and fewer crowds.
Summer in Edinburgh brings warmer temperatures and of course there’s the famed Edinburgh Fringe Festival each August that draws a huge crowd (accommodation books up months in advance and prices will be sky-high!).
We’d advise you to avoid visiting Edinburgh during the month of August unless you’re planning to attend The Fringe and can plan your trip well in advance.
→ Psst! For an in-depth guide on the seasonal weather patterns and other factors, check out our complete guide on the best time to visit Scotland.
Things to do in Edinburgh
If you’re looking for the very best things to do in Edinburgh, here are our top recommendations.
- Experience Scottish cuisine on a food tour
- Hike to Arthur’s Seat
- Cheers at Scotland’s oldest pub (& play a historic game!)
- Check out Victoria Street
- Wander the streets of Dean Village
- Get fancy at afternoon tea
- See sunset at Calton Hill
We have an entire article dedicated to the best things to do in Edinburgh where we share details and tips for first-time visitors.
Edinburgh map: Our favorite spots, restaurants & more!
Click on the map and enter your email to gain access to our custom Edinburgh map. It’s filled with custom pins of everything on this itinerary, plus our favorite restaurants, pubs and more!
How to get around Edinburgh
The very best way to get around Edinburgh is by walking!
Edinburgh’s Old Town truly is very walkable (if you don’t mind putting on 10,000+ steps in a day!).
That said, you’ll likely want to venture outside this area at some point. Below are the best ways to get around.
Uber
From Old Town, getting an Uber isn’t too difficult. That said, outside of this area, it can be a bit tricky, which we were not expecting.
Even at the airport, we were waiting to “get connected to a driver”. It eventually worked, but we were a little worried.
When we were on the outskirts of town a couple of times, Uber just never connected us to a driver. The wheel kept spinning until we realized it just wasn’t gonna happen and got our booties into a bus!
Bus
The bus system in Edinburgh is actually pretty good. You may have to do a bit of walking to get to and from the stops, but it’s affordable, punctual and reliable.
Self-driving
If you’re planning to rent a car in Scotland, we’d recommend waiting until after your time in Edinburgh. It wouldn’t be very fun driving the city, and parking can be tricky to find (not to mention, expensive!). Our advice is to save your rental car for when you leave the city to go on an epic Scottish road trip!
From the airport to the city
Tram:
Taking the tram from the airport to Edinburgh city center is the easiest and most convenient way to arrive. Trams run every 7 minutes from the hours of 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and every 15 minutes outside of those hours.
The airport tram stop is right outside the main terminal next to the plaza and Edinburgh sign.
Services run between the airport and York Place in the Edinburgh city center and make 15 stops along the way. A one-way adult ticket is just £6.50 and can be purchased at the ticket machines at every stop.
Bus:
The Airline 100 Bus also runs between Edinburgh Airport and the city center. Departures from the airport are every 30 minutes from 1:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., then every 10 minutes from 4:00 p.m. to 12:10 a.m. The journey is about 25 minutes (depending on traffic). A ticket costs £4.50 and can be paid to the driver as you board.
Uber:
Uber also works in Edinburgh, but is a much more expensive option. You can expect to pay around £17-24 for a one way ride to the city center.
Where to eat in Edinburgh
Edinburgh has a plethora of amazing restaurants – from cozy cafes to hole-in-the-wall pubs to fine dining, there’s truly something for everyone.
Insider Tip: If you’re walking around and you get hungry, open Google Maps and read reviews of the surrounding restaurants to choose a good one. This is what we always do when we’re planning a trip.
You should have no problem finding fantastic places to eat in Edinburgh, but if you want a few key restaurant recommendations, here ya go! (FYI most of these places are in the Old Town area.)
Breakfast
- The Edinburgh Larder: Cute cafe and adjoining coffee shop that serves excellent breakfast and brunch offerings as well as top-notch coffee. This was just next to our hotel (which we highly recommend!), and we loved grabbing breakfast here!
- Rocksalt Cafe: Excellent coffee and baked items at reasonable prices.
Quick Eats
- Oink: With three locations in Edinburgh (we recommend stopping while you’re on Victoria Street!), this pulled pork sandwich shop has a very small menu, but what they do have, they do well. Choose your bread, your sandwich size, your sauce and your topping: haggis or sage & onion stuffing.
- The Banh Mi Bar: For a quick lunch, this place has excellent Vietnamese street fare, and is conveniently located in the city center.
- Guajira Café & Coffee: For something totally different, this pocket-sized Caribbean cafe serves delicious sandwiches and smoothies and the owner is very friendly.
- The Haggis Box: Located inside the Scottish Storytelling Center, this small haggis shop is a casual and convenient place to try this national dish.
Scottish Pubs
- Arcade Bar Haggis & Whisky House: We were told by a local that this is his favorite haggis in all of Edinburgh. Plus, it makes a great place to sample local whiskeys in a cozy pub atmosphere. (FYI Kids are not allowed.)
- Cafe Royal: This historic pub has beautiful architecture and stained glass windows, and they serve a variety of whiskies and are known for their seafood specials.
- The Bow Bar: Cozy pub on Victoria Street serving pub fare.
- Under the Stairs: Hidden-feeling gastropub with fantastic drinks and food.
- The Standing Order: Former bank converted into a bustling pub with an all-day menu.
- Amber Restaurant: Connected with the Scottish Whisky Experience, this is no doubt a touristy restaurant, but it is actually a good one. With traditional Scottish cuisine and the option to do a 3-course meal with whisky pairings, the food, service and atmosphere all earn rave reviews.
International
- The Pakora Bar: Famed for their haggis pakoras, this Indian joint has a welcoming and eclectic atmosphere and serves classic Indian dishes.
- Dishoom: Often making the lists of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, Dishoom is an elevated dining experience featuring shareable dishes, a large vegan menu, and handcrafted cocktails.
Fine Dining
- Number One: One of the highest-rated restaurants in all of Edinburgh, this classic fine dining establishment is serving up sophisticated Scottish fare.
- Condita: With just 6 tables, this contemporary hidden gem serves up seasonal ingredients on their ever-changing surprise tasting menu.
- The Kitchin: With the namesake of its famed chef, Tim Kitchin, this contemporary restaurant celebrates Scottish food with seasonal ingredients and French techniques.
- Restaurant Martin Wishart: The multi-award winning chef heads up this fine dining establishment in Leith, known as one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh.
Afternoon tea
There are many places around the city for afternoon tea, so we created a guide to help you choose the best place to book your afternoon tea in Edinburgh.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
If you are visiting Edinburgh for the first time, we’d 100% recommend staying in Old Town (and we’ve got a top hotel rec for ya!).
Old Town is defined as the area between the Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, between which stretches the Royal Mile.
If you stay in this area, you’ll be within walking distance to most of the major attractions in Edinburgh. If you stay outside of Old Town, you will need to rely on taxis and public transportation if you plan to see most of the top sights.
Budget recommendation
Castle Rock Hostel: Consistently rated the best hostel in Edinburgh, Castle Rock has a mix of accommodation offerings ranging in price, from private rooms to gender-separated dormitories. The central location is unbeatable and we love that the property is carbon neutral and encourages environment-friendly practices.
Mid-range budget / couples stays
Linton Blackfriars Lofts: We stayed at Blackfriars Loft and couldn’t recommend it highly enough. The location is absolutely perfect as a base for exploring the city, and the space is super comfortable. 10/10 from us!
Destiny Scotland – Royal Mile Residence: With a prime location, right on the Royal Mile, these modern, serviced apartments offer a range of different accommodations from single to 3 room apartments.
Cheval Old Town Chambers: These modern luxury apartments are in a super central location, just a 2 minute walk from the Waverley Train Station in Old Town. The beautifully decorated apartments are available in 1, 2, and 3 bedroom plans.
→ Psst! If hotel stays aren’t your thing, we have a curated list of the best Edinburgh Airbnbs for you to browse!
Splurge stay
The Balmoral: As the number one luxury hotel in Edinburgh, The Balmoral is somewhat of an icon. Located on Princes Street, you’ll have views of Edinburgh Castle and Old Town from nearly every room. The elegant hotel is home of the Michelin-starred Number One, an onsite spa and stocked whiskey bar.
Perfect Edinburgh itinerary
Wondering how to fit all these great recommendations into just 3 days? We did the legwork for you and came up with what we think is the perfect Edinburgh itinerary.
Plan your trip to Scotland
Scotland is one of our favorite destinations for road tripping, and we’ve created tons of resources to help you plan the ultimate adventure. Start with our Scotland Travel Homepage and check out these helpful articles:
- Find out the best time to visit Scotland (and what you can expect in each season!).
- Start dreaming with our Scotland bucket list full of epic experiences and must-see places.
- Not sure where to go? Our guide to the best places to visit in Scotland will help you narrow it down.
- Ready to hit the road? This guide walks you through how to plan a Scotland road trip step by step.
- Our Scotland campervan rental guide will help you choose the right one.
- Here’s everything you need to know about camping in Scotland.
- Prefer a little more comfort? Don’t miss these dreamy glamping stays in Scotland.
Want the perfect Scotland road trip planned for you?
We spent two unforgettable weeks road tripping through Scotland—hiking to epic viewpoints, wandering historic castles, cruising through lochs, and camping in some pretty epic locations.
We took all of that experience (plus a ton of extra research!) and created the ultimate 2-week Scotland itinerary. It’s completely done-for-you and includes stunning drives, epic hikes, unique stays, and practical advice—plus access to our custom Scotland map to make planning stress-free.
If you want to see the very best of Scotland without spending hours piecing it all together, this is it.
Don’t forget to grab our Scotland packing list!
If you’re planning a trip to Scotland, we have the ultimate resource for you!
This FREE PDF download includes everything you’re going to want to pack for your trip to Scotland, including what NOT to bring, plus tons of insider tips!
Sign up for our ultimate Scotland packing list now and get a copy sent straight to your inbox.
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We want to hear from you!
We hope this Edinburgh travel guide was helpful in planning your trip to Scotland’s Capital. If you have any more questions, leave your comment below and we’ll do our best to get back to you with the answers you’re looking for!