Everything I’d Tell A Friend About Visiting Umpqua Hot Springs

Umpqua Hot Springs is one of Oregon’s most stunning natural destinations, but it’s not without its surprises. Here’s everything you need to know before you go, including how to get there, what to expect, and how to make the most of your visit.

This is undoubtedly the most iconic hot spring in Oregon, if not the entire Pacific Northwest.

I have personally been to this hot spring several times, and while it is stunning and such a unique spot, there are a lot of things to know before you go.

One of my friends recently told me she was going to Umpqua Hot Springs, and I immediately said, “That’s amazing, but let me tell you a few things first…”

So consider this article my way of sharing that advice I gave her with you, too.

Umpqua Hot Springs is a really special area, and I think you’ll love it as long as you know what to expect and are properly prepared.

Umpqua Hot Springs Guide

• Our experience
• Overview/stats
• How to get there
• Know before you go
• Hot spring etiquette
• FAQs
• Best time to visit
• What to pack
• Things to see nearby
• Where to eat nearby 
• Where to stay nearby

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My personal experience at Umpqua Hot Springs

The first time I went to Umpqua Hot Springs was on a road trip through Oregon back in 2017. I had no clue I would someday move here and call this state home!

I saw a picture of these hot springs on Instagram. But 2017 was before the time where destinations went super viral on social media, so it was still somewhat under the radar of the general public.

Today, there’s no way anyone can claim Umpqua Hot Springs is a hidden gem. It has gone viral over and over again, so for that reason, it can be a bit busy depending on when you go.

Since that first visit in 2017, I’ve been back many times. 

Always on road trips, and each time we visit we say, “This is truly incredible, but there are a lot of ways you could be disappointed.”

Be sure to read this section of things to know before you go!

Umpqua Hot Springs overview & stats

Nestled in a lush forest high above the North Umpqua River, Umpqua Hot Springs is a series of terraced pools perched on a cliff, and yes, it looks exactly as dramatic as it sounds. 

The top pool is sheltered by a rustic wooden structure, making it the largest and most communal of the bunch. Below that, a handful of smaller pools step their way down the cliffside, each one a bit cooler than the last. (Fair warning: the lowest pool is more “lukewarm” than “hot spring.”)

Umpqua draws a diverse crowd of everyone from families with kids to groups of college students to people soaking in the nude. Not that this presents a problem, just know what you’re walking into before you arrive.

Quick stats:

• Exact location
• Parking/trailhead location
• Open: Open year-round
• Hours: Day use only (no overnight camping)
• Entry fee: $5 day-use fee per vehicle, or free with a Northwest Forest Pass
• Facilities: Pit toilet at the trailhead; a very rustic outhouse near the springs
• Number of pools: Typically 3 (can vary with water levels and season)
• Water temperature: ~108°F
• Water clarity: Murky, with some surface film (don’t expect crystal clear turquoise!)
• Odor: Mild sulfur smell, nothing overwhelming
• Clothing: Optional
• Good for kids? Depends on your family; clothing is optional and people often drink and smoke here

How to get to Umpqua Hot Springs

Umpqua Hot Springs sits deep in the Umpqua National Forest along North Umpqua Highway (Highway 138). You’ll access the trailhead via a gravel Forest Service road, and heads up: the road can be rough, especially after wet winters. Potholes are common, so slow down and watch out. (I got a flat tire here once as the sun was setting, with no cell service. Luckily a stranger stopped and helped us or we might have been stranded!)

Distances from major cities:

• From Bend: 121 miles / approximately 2 hours 20 minutes
• From Eugene: 130 miles / approximately 2 hours 25 minutes
• From Salem: 192 miles / approximately 3 hours 20 minutes
• From Portland: 234 miles / approximately 4 hours
• From Roseburg: 64 miles / approximately 1 hour 20 minutes

From the west (coming from Eugene or Roseburg):

1. From Roseburg, head east on Highway 138 for approximately 60 miles, passing Toketee Falls.
2. Turn left onto Forest Road 34 / Toketee-Rigdon Road.
3. You’ll pass Toketee Campground on your left.
4. Stay right at the fork and continue about 4.5 miles total from the highway.
5. Follow signs for Umpqua Hot Springs to the small parking area.

From the east (coming from Bend):

1. From US-97, head west on Highway 138, passing Diamond Lake and Mount Thielsen.
2. Turn right onto Forest Road 34 / Toketee-Rigdon Road.
3. You’ll pass Toketee Campground on your left.
4. Stay right at the fork and continue about 4.5 miles total from the highway.
5. Follow signs for Umpqua Hot Springs to the small parking area.

Insider tip: At just over two hours from Bend, Umpqua Hot Springs makes for a solid day trip, but get an early start if you want any shot at beating the crowds.

The hike in to Umpqua Hot Springs

From the parking lot, the trail is 0.4 miles to the springs (0.8 miles round trip). It’s short but there’s one steep section, and the path is rocky and root-covered in spots, so we’d recommend hiking sandals (like Chacos) over flip flops. From the trailhead, you’ll cross a small bridge and then climb through beautiful forest to the springs.

Know before you go

We’re big believers in honest travel advice around here, so let’s talk about what to actually expect when you show up.

It gets busy 

This is not a hidden gem; Instagram made sure of that years ago. If you want the best experience, arrive before 10 a.m., visit on a weekday, or plan to camp nearby so you can hit the springs early or late when the day-trippers have cleared out.

The upper pool is the biggest (and most social)

The smaller terraced pools below it (the ones you’ve definitely seen on Instagram) are more intimate but also hotter. They fill up fast. If you arrive and find the lower pools occupied, you may be waiting.

The water isn’t as clear as photos suggest

We say this with love, but those dreamy blue Instagram photos are doing some heavy lifting. In reality, the water is murky and often has a slight film on the surface. It’s still a great soak, so just calibrate your expectations.

Nudity, drinking, and smoking are common here

This is true of most undeveloped hot springs in the PNW, but worth knowing before you bring the whole family. Plenty of families do visit, but it’s a good idea to be prepared for the full range of hot spring culture.

Cell service is essentially nonexistent

Especially on the road in and out. Download your Google Maps offline before you leave, and make sure your spare tire is in good shape. (Seriously, this road has claimed a tire of mine!)

The road is gravel and can be rough

Especially in spring and after wet weather, expect potholes. Take it slow.

There’s an outhouse at the springs

…but it’s very basic. If you can, take care of things at the trailhead before making the hike in.

Hot springs etiquette at Umpqua

There are a few unwritten rules you should always follow when visiting hot springs. 

Leave no trace

There are no trash cans at the hot springs, so everything you carry in, you carry out. That means every wrapper, every snack bag, every fruit peel, every nutshell. Yes, biodegradable items count too, because they’re not native to this ecosystem and can attract wildlife to the area.

If you really want to be a hero (and we think you do), take a minute to pick up any trash you spot and pack it out with you. It takes two seconds and makes a big difference in keeping this place beautiful for everyone who comes after you.

For a refresher on the principles behind this, check out our full guide to Leave No Trace.

Be mindful of others

With the exception of the larger top pool, most of these pools are quite small and fit just 2-4 people (snugly). Keep this in mind and be considerate of others. 

If someone is waiting, be prepared to share your pool or wrap up your soak in a reasonable amount of time. This is a public hot spring, after all, and others have made the same effort to get here as you have. 

If solo soaking is your goal, your best bet is arriving early, staying late, or camping nearby to snag the springs during quieter hours. (See our list of campgrounds)

Personal story: We met one woman who was telling us about her time at Umpqua. She had spent all morning soaking solo in a pool, reading a book, but was annoyed when someone asked to join her in the pool. While I can understand it’s not ideal when you’re looking for solitude, I’d encourage you to think about everyone else who is there. It takes a bit of time and effort to get to these hot springs in the first place, so having to stand and wait while someone soaks solo for hours isn’t fair to expect. 

Umpqua Hot Springs FAQs

How many pools are there?

Typically three, though this can shift depending on the season and water levels. The top pool is covered with a wooden structure and tends to be the largest and hottest. The pools below it step down the cliff and get progressively cooler, with the lowest landing somewhere in lukewarm territory.

How crowded does it get?

Very. There’s no sugarcoating it. 

Summer weekends especially can feel like standing in line more than soaking. Our best advice for avoiding the crowds is to visit on weekdays, off-season, early mornings, or staying nearby overnight.

Is Umpqua Hot Springs worth visiting?

We think so, with the right expectations. 

The setting is genuinely stunning, the surrounding forest is beautiful, and there’s a ton of other great stuff to do in the area. But if you show up expecting pristine, crystal-clear water and total solitude, you’ll likely be disappointed. Know what you’re getting into and you’ll have a great time.

How much time should I plan for?

We’d budget at least 1.5 hours to account for the hike in and out plus soaking time, and more if you’re hoping to linger. If you’re camping nearby or making a full day of it in the Umpqua area, you can be more relaxed about the timing.

Where is the nearest gas station?

Fill up before you head out; the area is remote. Diamond Lake has a gas station about 26 miles to the east. Roseburg, 64 miles west, has several options.

Is it open year-round?

Yes, but with a major caveat: once snow hits, the access road closes. In winter, you’ll need to hike, snowshoe, or cross-country ski an additional 1.5 miles each way from the road closure point. Find out more below about visiting Umpqua in winter. 

Best time to visit Umpqua Hot Springs

Every season offers something different here, so it really comes down to what you’re after.

Summer brings warm days and easy road access, but it also brings the biggest crowds. 

Fall and spring are our sweet spots. The air is cool, the forest is gorgeous, and the crowds thin out compared to peak summer. One thing to note: the lower pools can feel surprisingly cool in fall, so you may find yourself gravitating toward the hotter upper pool.

Winter is the least crowded time of year to visit, which is a major selling point. The trade-off is that the access road closes with snowfall, meaning you’ll be adding 1.5 miles each way on foot (or skis or snowshoes) to your trip. If you’re up for the adventure, a winter visit can be absolutely incredible, so just come prepared.

Bottom line: Weekday visits in shoulder seasons (May-June or September-October) tend to offer the best balance of accessibility and manageable crowds.

Umpqua Hot Springs in the winter

We haven’t personally visited in the winter months (yet!), but it’s on our list because it looks especially magical. Plus, there’s no better time for soaking in hot springs in my opinion than when the air is chilly!

That said, you will likely have to hike a bit further in (more on that below). 

Plus, it’s worth mentioning that with the exception of the top pool, some of the smaller ones (the most picturesque pools) are just warm and may not be hot enough for soaking when it’s cold outside. 

Hiking there in the winter

During the winter months, the last section of road may be closed due to snow. (Forest Road NF-34 / Toketee-Ridgon Rd)

If that’s the case, just park at the gate and enjoy a 2-mile hike into the springs. It’s actually a lovely way to experience the forest in winter!

Highway 138, which takes you out to the area, is paved and generally well-maintained year-round, so getting there shouldn’t give you any trouble. 

That said, this part of Oregon does see real winter weather, so it’s worth being prepared for icy or snowy conditions along the way. We always keep tire chains and an ice scraper in the car this time of year, just in case. 

The good news is you don’t need four-wheel drive or high clearance to get there, just a sensible vehicle and a little extra caution.

What to pack for visiting Umpqua Hot Springs

• Water bottle (staying hydrated while soaking matters more than you’d think)
• Towel and/or a quick-dry sarong
• Hiking sandals (Chacos are our top pick, sturdy enough for the trail and easy to keep on in the water)
• Bathing suit, if that’s your preference
• Easy on/off layers for changing
• A dry bag to keep your phone and valuables safe from splashes
• Snacks, plus a bag to pack out all your trash
• Offline Google Maps downloaded before you leave (no cell service out here)
• Northwest Forest Pass or $5 cash for the day-use fee

Things to see nearby

The Umpqua National Forest is chock full of waterfalls, the most iconic of which is definitely Toketee Falls (absolutely worth visiting). There are plenty of other lesser-known waterfalls too.

• Toketee Falls: One of the most photogenic waterfalls in the entire state, Toketee is just a short detour right off Highway 138. The trail to the viewpoint is easy and short, and the payoff is spectacular: a two-tiered falls plunging into a basalt canyon. Don’t skip this one.
• Susan Creek Falls: A quieter, less-visited waterfall along the North Umpqua corridor. The hike to reach it is short and lovely, making it a nice addition to a day exploring the area without a lot of extra effort.
• Falls Creek Falls: A beautiful falls worth seeking out if you’re spending more than a day in the area.
• Watson Falls: Another impressive waterfall stop right along Highway 138. At over 270 feet, Watson Falls is one of the tallest in Oregon and well worth the short hike to reach the base.
• Slide Creek Falls: A lesser-known gem tucked away in the Umpqua National Forest. It’s a bit more off the beaten path than some of the other waterfalls in the area, which means you’re more likely to have it to yourself.
• Diamond Lake: Stunning alpine lake that makes for a great half-day side trip. You can kayak, paddleboard, fish, or simply pull off and take in one of the best views in southern Oregon.
• Crater Lake National Park: The deepest lake in the US and arguably one of the most beautiful places in the entire country, it’s about an hour and a half from Umpqua Hot Springs and absolutely worth the drive. (We’ve combined visits to Umpqua and Crater Lake on a few of our road trips through the state.)

Where to eat near Umpqua Hot Springs

There’s truly not many places to eat near Umpqua Hot Springs, so we definitely recommend packing as much of your own food as possible.

Glide: This is the nearest town and has a handful of good options. 

• The Atom Bistro and Coffee Bar: for breakfast or lunch, look no further! This coffee shop has great breakfast burritos and a variety of great lunch options. Grab and go or enjoy it in the cozy atmosphere. If you want a sweet treat, snag a brown butter rice krispies treat!
• COHO PIZZA CO.: for a sit down meal, grab a pizza and beer at Coho!

Roseburg: This is a larger town and just west of Glide.

• Two-Shy Brewing: this is the best place in the area to go for burgers and beer
• McMenamins Roseburg Station Pub & Brewery: we love McMenamin’s properties mostly for the eclectic, fun atmosphere. You can get some standard American style food here as well.
• La Cocina: for authentic Mexican fare, this is your spot

Diamond Lake: If you’re looking for food west of Umpqua Hot Springs, this is your best option:

• South Shore Pizza: located on Diamond Lake can be a good place to grab pizza to enjoy with a view of the lake.

Where to stay near Umpqua Hot Springs

Since overnight camping isn’t allowed at the hot springs themselves, you’ll want to line up a campsite or hotel nearby, especially if you want to maximize your time at the springs by arriving early or staying late.

Campgrounds

• Lemolo #2 Forebay Forest Camp: Free campground, only a few sites, this is the closest to the hot spring and some people stay here long-term, so it can be tricky to snag a spot.
  • We’ve stayed here several times and it’s a great option, so just have a backup plan in case it’s full when you arrive.
• Toketee Lake Campground: Pretty campground along Toketee Lake, just off Highway 138. It’s a convenient base if Lemolo is full, and puts you close to several of the area’s waterfalls as well.
• Whitehorse Falls Campground: Small, peaceful campground right alongside Whitehorse Falls on the North Umpqua River. 
• Clearwater Falls Campground: Situated near Clearwater Falls in the heart of the Umpqua National Forest, this campground offers a classic PNW forest setting. It’s a solid choice and a short drive to the hot springs.

Hotels

• Umpqua’s Last Resort: This quirky, cabin-style property leans into its remote, off-the-grid character. If you’re looking for a unique place to stay that feels more like a true wilderness retreat than a typical hotel, this is it. It’s popular among hot springs visitors, so book ahead.
• Steamboat Inn: A classic inn along the North Umpqua River with a rustic, unpretentious charm. I stayed here once with a friend and it was rustic and simple but a good base for exploring the area.

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Plan your trip to Oregon

Being that Oregon is our home state, we have TONS of content to help you plan your trip. Start with our Oregon Homepage and be sure to check out the articles below. Leave us a comment if you have any more questions!

• Don’t miss our round up of things to do in Bend (all year round!)
• This article will help you visit the 7 wonders of Oregon.
• If you need more ideas, here are some incredible places to visit in Oregon.
• You’ll want to keep this Oregon road trip itinerary close by.
• Read up on all the weirdly awesome things to do in Portland. 
• If you’re headed west, here are all the cutest Oregon Coast towns.
• Plan your Oregon coast road trip with our insider tips & map.
• Don’t skip Cannon Beach, our favorite small town in Oregon.
• Keep this list of our favorite things to do in Oregon handy.

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We want to hear from you!

Have you visited Umpqua Hot Springs? We’d love to hear about your experience! Drop a comment and let us know — and if you have any questions before your trip, we’re happy to help.